Francois Ghanem: Jo'burg - The Tale of Two Cities

Our hotel was located in Sandton - in the vicinity of Nelson Mandela Square.  Within easy reach were up-scale restaurants and shopping such as a Gucci store in a big shopping arcade.
The area also had professional buildings, international banking offices and the South African stock exchange.  A highly polished area that offers a glimpse into potential!  From conversations I had - Sandton is a well to do and a highly desirable area that many aspire to work and live in.

We spent a day visiting Soweto and the Apartheid museum.  So much history and to peek at that history is so fascinating and highly disturbing at the same time.  Seeing uniformed and smiling school children at the Pieterson museum learning about and absorbing a critical period in South African history was touching and filled with emotion.

As we visited different parts of Soweto we began to get a basic understanding of the history and the toll it took (and arguably continues to) on so many.  We gained an appreciation that Soweto in more than a neighbourhood.  It was and continues to be a crucible of history in the making and contains a strata of people from Winnie Mandela to recently migrated people from other parts of Africa.  Neighbourhood areas ranged from the "Beverly Hills of Soweto" to flood prone metal shacks without water and electricity.
What is striking are conversations with"Born Frees" and older ones of many backgrounds and races.  The common theme: a better future in peace and security.  Indeed is that not what all of humanity is seeking?

Speaking of humanity - we visited the UNESCO World Heritage site - the cradle of humanity.  We only visited the visitor's centre (not the caves).  Admittedly, I have some fundamental questions about the timelines and theories presented.  However,  as an attraction - the site was mediocre, at best (as compared to other world heritage sites we visited).  At times, in my view, the site ventured into the cheesy realm.  Case in point: a boat ride reminiscent of Disney's "Its a small world" boat ride. 

We also visited the Lesedi Cultural Centre. The centre is intended to provide an introduction to the various peoples of South Africa.  Some may argue that the whole experience is touristy and staged.  I would not dispute that.  However, the experience was informative and entertaining.  The dance demonstrations were great!  Lunch at Lesedi consisted of a buffet of African dishes.  An ample selection was available, but the quality was adequate.

Earlier in the trip I tried a Kudu steak.  At Lesedi at one of the tour stops they offered cooked mopani worms in sauce.  Much to our host's surprise (and subsequent delight) I tried the worms.  I would eat them again.  And - no - they don't taste like chicken.

There you have it - a brief look at our very limited experience in Jo'burg.  It is a big city but one we found fascinating, friendly and filled with hope and potential.  A city that tells many tales with a common thread.

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Guest Blogger: Francois Ghanem - Panorama Route

When I was planning this trip most resources and guide books barely (if at all) mentioned the "Panorama Route."
The "Pano Route" (as I heard it referred to several times during our day discovering it) is a wonderful day trip.  The problem was itinerary planning.  I was a day short elsewhere on the trip and told Elizabeth to cut out the Pano Route.
Elizabeth persuaded me not to.  We were glad we had the opportunity to take a day trip  to explore the Pano Route.  The route is a great way to appreciate the Blyde River canyon - one of the biggest in the world and 2nd biggest in Africa. 
Along the way we saw lush forests, great waterfalls, interesting rock formations and mountain peaks up to 1900+ meters.
We ended our day with a bit of shopping in Graskop.

All in all a great day and a different one than the bush. Glad we did not skip it.

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Instalment 2: Guest Blogger - Francois Ghanem

So we've finally arrived in South Africa.
I've been thinking about what to write and what my guest blog focus will be.  I will be giving an overview of our experiences and not obsessing about details of accomodations and hotels.

Our first stop was a Sabi Sands private reserve.  We stayed at a lodge recommended by Elizabeth.  The accommodations were perfect.  The food was very good and abundant.  The staff was hyper-attentive to our comfort and were excellent host.  Suffice it to say that when we checked in to the lodge my wife declared Elizabeth a travel advice goddess.
(The lodge routine was fairly typical of all lodges: early morning and late afternoon drives, bush walks, meals etc... a busy schedule indeed that started at 5:30 am and ended at 9:30 pm.)
But I digress....  The reason we are here is to see the bush creatures  - not to talk about the generous creature comforts we enjoyed.   The big 5 parade started on the drive to the lodge when we saw two lions.  It gets better.  Over the next 6 game drives we saw the big five multiple times.  We saw babies, adults and ageing animals.  We saw some of the "little 5" and some of the "shy 5".  We saw a nursing baby rhino and two lions " in flagante delicto."  We even saw an elusive cheetah - we were told the first sighting in the area in 4 months.
Really memorable!  Yet just as thrilling were the bush walks where we got an overview of the flora and fauna and lessons in tracking animals by tracks and dung.  The best part was one walk with just me and the ranger.  We enjoyed conversations along the way but we also stopped to enjoy the bush silence punctuated by the sounds of animals doing what they do and at times you could actually hear the bigger birds flapping their wings as I stood there in silent awe.
The guests were an international bunch with an American majority.  A few south Africans visiting the bush with us certainly provided an interesting perspective on bush tourism as well as past and current events in the country. Also of interest was a conversation with the lodge proprietor about rhino poaching and eco-tourism.   Thought provoking!

That's it for now.  Till the next update.....

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On route to Africa - Guest Blogger - Francois Ghanem

So my wife and I are on a plane 5 hours away from Jo'burg and an incredible journey of 4 weeks that Elizabeth helped make a reality.
Some history first...  We started planning for our Africa trip 14 months ago.  It all began with an email describing who we are as travellers, what we enjoy doing when we travel and what we want and what we dont - and possible dates for trip.  We did not want a mass marketed tour, a camping trip,  or an ultra expensive "spafari".  We were looking for good value which I know is not necessarilly inexpensive.
Out of the dozen or so companies (in USA, UK and South Africa) we contacted we selected Elizabeth. Why?
Because,  some responded that they do not cater to customers with our specific requirements (read not interested in value minded travellers).  Some ignored our email and told us what they wanted to sell us and why it fits our travel requirements.  Some even would not even talk unless we established a budget (I do not like to start the process with this important aspect of travel for reasons beyond this post).  And some said the trip is 14 months in the future come back in 8 months when pricing is available.
Elizabeth, on the other hand - responded with a thourogh email that gave specific feedback and suggestions for every aspect of our inquiry.  We fine tuned the trip with Elizabeth providing guidance along each step of the way. 
In a nut shell, Elizabeth understood us and our requirements.  Her emails clearly reflected this along with a sense of humor and a keen understanding of the Southern Africa travel scene.
Most important in our dealings with Elizabeth was the transparancy in pricing and her openness in sharing pricing of alternatives.  Remarkable, also, is the fact when she found a pricing error (in my favor) she let me know and credited me the amount!
One last thing - I research quite a bit and ask a million questions.  Elizabeth handled everything so well for 14 months and addressed all my inquires with efficient professionalizm along  with responsiveness and humor.
Enough about how we came to this point.  On to the trip.... Over the next four weeks we will visit South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia.  Will be on safari,  some city stays, and self drive in Namibia.
We are thrilled as we embark on this trip and look forward to all the experiences and food (yes including smiley, mopani worms and monkey gland sauce - it is not what you think !)

Till the next installment with some travel observations and recap of what we're doing....

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Guest Blogger

For some time I have been working on the travel arrangements for a client, Francois Ghanem.  He is just about due to arrive into South Africa, and, during one of many conversations, the idea of a guest blog was proposed.

I thought it would be ever so interesting to hear from a client, during his travels, about how he finds the whole experience - the good, the bad and the ugly!  So, look out for our first ever guest blog - to follow

Elizabeth

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The Big Five

The Big Five are simply magnificent - there is something absolutely magical about seeing one of these amazing creatures in the great outdoors, from the safety of your game drive vehicle.  It is impossible to forget one's first safari!

The rangers will ask what it is you want to see - and, who can resist the lure of the Big Five.  (Lion, Leopard, Buffalo, Elephant and Rhino).  Tracking them down and finding them is just thrilling!

But - there is more to the game experience than the Big Five only!  For me, Wild Dog remain the sighting of sightings!  They are incredible to watch - they work together and move in a choreographed unity that is just fascinating to see.  They are very elusive - they have a massive range so, it is not always certain that you will find them - it means that, when you do, you feel like you have found treasure!  Best options to look for them include the Madikwe Game Reserve, Tembe Elephant Park in Northern Kwazulu Natal and regions of the Okavango Delta in Botswana.

Often, these are areas that are not visited on the first time to Southern Africa - so, it is a great reason to come back.

Another of my favourite sightings was seeing bat-eared foxes feasting on flying termites one evening near Botswana - they were a delight to see - and, had the added benefit of being a lot smaller than an elephant (just saying - ellies are just too darn big!)

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Okavango Delta Moment

I find it ever so intriguing how a tiny incident can stand out in your mind and capture a moment that you remember forever.

We visited the Okavango Delta and stayed at the most gorgeous accommodation, with sublime food and scenery and game viewing.  But, what I will never forget was the moment we were drifing in our mokora, close to the reeds in the waterway when the tiniest jewel-coloured, Faberge-styled tree frog let out a mighty squirt of something - I have no idea what it was, but it was horrible!!!!  There was a LOT of shrieking and we nearly fell over-board - it was hilarious. 

I don't even remember which lodge we were at or what area - but, I remember that frog most fondly.

Just a silly moment on safari!

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